On November 6th 1987, the Austreans Hans Bannthaler, Cristine Olbertech y Ewald Lidl climbed the rap to right of the East face, then they followed a well defined dihedral all the way to the col. From there, they climbed the North spur to the summit. The route has 450 metres, 55° degrees on ice and 5.8 on rock. Written by Marco Dura y Guillermo Dura
Guides and group sizes
Ratio is 1 guide per 2 guests.
Difficulty and prerequisites
Guest should feel comfortable flat footing and front pointing on moderate angle ice up to 55 degrees with crampons
These are all physically demanding days and participants must be in good hiking shape.
Guests are required to carry a backpack with their personal gear (clothes, sleeping bag, pad, etc), group (tents, pot, stoves, etc) and food. About 20 to 25 kg, except summit day. Otherwise, personal porters could be arranged in advance.
No alpine climbing experience is required. However, if you have had some, especially in rock climbing, it helps a lot.
Participants are responsible for their own transportation to El Chaltén, Argentina. Your travel agent should be able to arrange this for you. You could get there either by flying to Buenos Aires, and then flying to El Calafate, and from there, a bus ride to El Chaltén.
Accommodation & Meals
All meals and accommodation from day 1 (Meeting in El Chaltén) to day 3 are included. Tents are in double and triple basis. In case the program is done in 2 days, accommodation in El Chaltén for day 2 is not included, however, we could arrange it for you.
Also, if you need us to arrange accommodation for you before and after the climb, please advice us and try our best to sort it out.
Please let us know of any special dietary requirements.
The fame of the area regarding wind and fast changeable conditions are not a legend. Be ready to experience nature and all its beauties and power. You can block extra days, as back up days, which can give you more chances to make best use of weather conditions.