Aguja Guillaumet – 2579 meters

This needle is one of the first objectives new climbers to the area. It is chosen to get used to the Patagonia’s terrain, rock, snow, wind and weather in general.

According to snow/ice conditions and experience, we propose two different routes to climb Aguja Guillaumet, most known as “La Guillo”.

On the East face lays Couloir Amy, climbed for the first time by Bernard Amy and Pierre Vidalhet on February 26^th 1968. They were part of a French team trying to climb the East pillar of Fitz Roy. Total length of route 450 metres, 60º on snow/ice and 5.8

On the West face, the legendary Fonrouge-Comesaña is our proposal. The climb has very good rock and excellent views. After Couloir Amy, this route is the most repeated on the needle. Total length of route 600 metres, pitches from 5.4 to 5.9 and an amazing pitch of 5.10c/d. The last 4 pitches are shared with Amy Couloir route.

Amy Couloir video

GUIDES AND GROUP SIZES

Ratio is 1 guide per 2 guests.

DIFFICULTY AND PREREQUISITES

Guest should feel comfortable flat footing and front pointing on moderate angle ice up to 55 degrees with crampons.

These are all physically demanding days and participants must be in good hiking shape.

Guests are required to carry a backpack with their personal gear (clothes, sleeping bag, pad, etc), group (tents, pot, stoves, etc) and food. About 20 to 25 kg, except summit day. Otherwise, personal porters could be arranged in advance.

No alpine climbing experience is required. However, if you had some, especially in rock climbing, it helps a lot.

TRANSPORTATION

Participants are responsible for their own transportation to El Chaltén, Argentina. 

MEALS & ACCOMMODATION

All meals and accommodation during the expedition are included. Tents are in double and triple basis. 

Also, if you need us to arrange accommodation for you before and after the climb, please advice us and try our best to help you.

Please let us know of any special dietary requirements.

WEATHER CONSIDERATION

The fame of the area regarding wind and fast changeable conditions are not a legend. Be ready to experience nature and all its beauties and power. You can block extra days, as back up days, which can give you more chances to make best use of weather conditions.

Itinerary

Day 0

We meet our guide at our office. We check gear, sort the food  and gear of the expedition and arrange last minute details.

Day 1

A transfer takes us to Río Eléctrico bridge where we start hiking. Two hours later we reach Piedra del Fraile Camp. After a short stop we keep on going. 1000 metres of switch backing are waiting for us. After 3 hours we reach our bivy site known as Piedra Negra. We set up camp, cook some dinner and get ready for climbing.

Day 2

Very early in the morning, maybe at night, we wake up, have breakfast and start our approach to base of the route. Depending which route we have chosen, our approach times are around 2 ½ to 4 hrs. Enjoy the climb and the panoramic views of the ice cap and other granite needles. We rap the same route. Come back to our bivy spot for a well-deserved dinner.

Day 3

Wake up when body says so. Take down camp and start our descent to Piedra del Fraile. After break, we keep going to Río Eléctrico bridge, same way in, where a transfer to El Chaltén is going to be waiting for us.