This needle is one of the first objectives for a new climber to the area. They climb it to get used to the rock, snow, wind and weather in general.
According to snow/ice conditions and fitness, we propose two different routes to climb Aguja Guillaumet, most known as “La Guillo”
On the east face lays Couloir Amy, climbed for the first time by Bernard Amy and Pierre Vidalhet on February 26th 1968. They were part of a French team trying to climb the east pillar of Fitz Roy. Total length of route 450 metres, 60º on snow/ice and 5.8
On the west face, the legendary Fonrouge-Comesaña is our proposal. The climb has very good rock and excellent views. After Couloir Amy, this route is the most repeated on the needle. Total length of route 600 metres, pitches from 5.4 to 5.9 and an amazing pitch of 5.10c/d. The last 4 pitches are shared with Amy Couloir route.
Amy Couloir video
Guides and group sizes
Ratio is 1 guide per 2 guests.
Difficulty and prerequisites
Guest should feel comfortable flat footing and front pointing on moderate angle ice up to 55 degrees with crampons
These are all physically demanding days and participants must be in good hiking shape.
Guests are required to carry a backpack with their personal gear (clothes, sleeping bag, pad, etc), group (tents, pot, stoves, etc) and food. About 20 to 25 kg, except summit day. Otherwise, personal porters could be arranged in advance.
No alpine climbing experience is required. However, if you had some, especially in rock climbing, it helps a lot.
Participants are responsible for their own transportation to El Chaltén, Argentina. Your travel agent should be able to arrange this for you. You could get there either by flying to Buenos Aires, and then flying to El Calafate and a bus ride to El Chaltén.
Accommodation & Meals
All meals and accommodation from day 1 (Meeting in El Chaltén) to day 3 are included. Tents are in double and triple basis. In case the program is done in 2 days, accommodation in El Chaltén for day 2 is not included, however, we could arrange them for you. Also, if you need us to arrange accommodation for you before and after the climb, please advice us and try our best to sort it out.
Please let us know of any special dietary requirements.
The fame of the area regarding wind and fast changeable conditions are not a legend. Be ready to experience nature and all its beauties and power. You can block extra days, as back up days, which can give you more chances to make best use of weather conditions.
We meet our guide at 8:00 AM. We check gear, food and arrange last minute details. A transfer takes us to Rio Electrico Bridge where we start hiking. Two hours later we reach Piedra del Fraile camping. After a short stop we keep on going. 1000 metres of switch backing are waiting for us. After 3 hours we reach our bivy site known as Piedra Negra. We set up camp, cook some dinner and get ready for climbing.
Very early in the morning, may be at night, we wake up, have breakfast and start our approach to base of the route. Depending which route we have chosen, our approach times are around 2 ½ to 4 hrs. Enjoy the climb and the panoramic views of the ice cap and other granite needles. We rap the same route. Come back to our bivy spot for a well-deserved dinner.
Wake up when body says so. Take down camp and start our descent to Piedra del Fraile. After break, we keep going to Rio Electrico bridge, same way in, where a transfer to El Chaltén is going to be waiting for us. Barbecued Lamb is the Patagonian way to celebrate an ascent (there are veggie options as well).